the power of framing

Ryoan-ji, perhaps the most famous of the Zen gardens, is mostly raked white gravel. It has 15 stones but they are never all visible from a single vantage point. The image I got before actually going here was one of Zen serenity.

The reality is that, since it is the most famous Zen garden, it is also usually crowded. This visit was even less serene due to the roof repairs that required scaffolding around the temple and a "stage" over the usual veranda for viewers.

Despite the crowds, the larger landscape garden was fascinating. I have never seen trees pruned like this before:

Saving the best for last

For our last night in Kyoto, I made reservations to stay at Shunko-in Temple in the Myoshin-ji complex in northwest Kyoto not far from the famous Zen garden Ryoan-ji. I can't remember how I found out about this place but when I discovered that the Vice-Abbot of the temple went to ASU and offered discounts to alumni, I was totally sold. We approached at dusk and could barely see the map to find our way. We were running late (as usual) and were rushing to get there by 6:30 to check in. In our haste we failed to take in the incredible context of our accommodations. The Myoshin-ji complex has 47 sub-temples within its gates and many of them contain historically significant gardens, paintings and other artifacts in addition to their notable architecture. Vice-Abbot Takafumi Kawakami welcomed us to Shunko-in with a freindly smile, easy English and a long list of things we might like to do in Kyoto. His best recommendation was to eat at a casual place just up the street run by his friend Akira called Kitchen Raku Raku (Easy Easy). (See Larry's post for for details: http://tlaverswithrally.blogspot.com/2009/03/pardon-meive-been-drinking.html )

Shunko-in is a relaxed place that looks like a cross between a temple and a hostel- bicycles, café tables and clotheslines fill the courtyards around the guest rooms. We slept on futons but our room had a deluxe toilet rivaling that of the ones at luxury hotels and department stores. (Luxury toilets in japan include tape recorded camouflage sounds, warm seats, bidets, other sprays and sometimes dryers and deodorizers!) The other shared facilities are more traditional (i.e. no-frills squats.) There is free wifi and a shared kitchen with everything one could want including an espresso machine. There are even bicycles to borrow.

This place is designed for outdoor living since only the sleeping rooms are heated- everything else is outside or almost outside. In keeping with Japanese architecture, the boundaries between inside and outside are often indistinguishable. After a warm and humid day near 80 degrees in Tokyo, we arrived to Kyoto in crisp weather in the 40's and 50's. I made tea in the kitchen and sat in the sun with hat, coat and gloves to enjoy it outside before our meditation lesson and the temple tour. (See Larry's post for more details: http://tlaverswithrally.blogspot.com/2009/03/meditation.html )

Taka and Larry at the temple "door."

Shunko-in has a fascinating history that includes Zen Buddhism, Shintoism and Christianity. Although it is a Zen temple, founded in 1590, it served as secret place for Christian worship when Christianity was banned from 1603-1867. A bell and a painted screen room both contain disguised Christian symbolism. The garden's theme is the great shrine of Ise, the head of all Shinto shrines in Japan. As a 5th generation temple priest from this place, it is no surprise that Taka chose religious studies as his major when he studied in the US and that he has also worked in religious conflict resolution. He is, not surprisingly, a supporter of the free Tibet movement. In other words, Taka is a man with a mission who is making a difference in the world by working for peace, tolerance, justice and cultural understanding every day. He does it on a large scale as a delegate to the U.S.-Japan Leadership Program and on a small scale by teaching meditation classes and providing temple tours, meditation lessons and accommodations to travelers. His tour of the temple was fascinating and I was sorry I didn't bring my book to take notes. He is full of information on the history, culture and art of Japan and he is well-connected to other temples and craft studios in Kyoto. He is the ultimate host for our Japanese Visual Culture course next summer! We made plans to base our course there in May when Taka said was the best possible time to stay. I look forward to introducing our students to Taka and Shunko-in. A few more images of Myoshin-ji temple complex- our Kyoto home base in May 2010!

Haiku

After checking in at Myoshin-ji Temple we decided to eat at Akira's Paradise Kitchen nearby. We were in for a treat as we gave Akira free reign on what to prepare (since we couldn't read the menu). What a feast:


Then Akira broke out some sort of playing cards. We couldn't figure out the rules (if there were any), so Larry introduced us to the art of haiku (Japanese poetry - 5,7,5 syllable phrases). We would randomly pick a card and try to tell a story about it in haiku. The first one was about a Sumarai:

"Kindly look away
As I sharpen my axe blade
To cut off your head."

Here's my first haiku - ever:

"I tried hard today
To put my hair in a bun -
I will try harder."

Then Dana reminded us that haiku are usually about nature or the seasons so I tried my best to incorporate sakura:

"Blossoms, we art thou?
Oh, pink beauty - I love you!
Don't leave me waiting."

Japanese Traditions

I haven't blogged since we left Nagoya, so I have a lot to summarize today. We spent the last two days in Tokyo (Asakusa), where we stayed at a lovely ryokan (traditional Japanese guest house). It's much too small to have our whole study abroad group stay here next year, so Dana and I set out to find suitable hostels in the neighborhood. The one that we liked the best is Sakura Hostel.

We also met with Tomoka, one of my students who moved back to Japan for a semester to find a job after graduating this coming December. For lunch we enjoyed Okonomiyaki, a pan-fried cabbage "pancake," before visiting the Advertising Museum. The museum is associated with Dentsu and features a permanent exhibition about the history of advertising in Japan, its role in society, and also current award winning ad campaigns. Our students will love this museum and it will definitely be on next year's study abroad itinerary.

Another highlight yesterday was our dinner. We went to a famous conveyor-belt sushi restaurant that pumped out all sorts of sushi - all of exceptional quality. Here's one of my favorite ones (squid):


After visiting Tokyo National Museum we headed to Roppongi for an official tea ceremony at Okura Hotel. We repeatedly hit our heads on the low ceiling of the tea room but enjoyed learning about this very formal ritual that started in the 15th century when Zen Buddhist monks introduced it after studying in China.

Tokyo (Asakusa to Ginza)

The best way to arrive at Tsukiji Central Wholesale Market is to take the water bus from Asakusa to the Gardens at Hama Rikyu. We avoided the subway (and crowds) altogether and enjoyed a beautiful, warm and sunny day. Our boat was decidedly older than the one in this picture. It was a converted steam ship from 1885!

Along the river I marveled at the variety of building sizes and the creative way designers must work to maximize square footage by going vertical on a small footprint.

The homeless camps on the river look just like those of long-term campers in U.S. state parks with tents, laundry lines, outdoor kitchens. I saw a guy sweeping up his area to keep it tidy.

We almost missed our stop at Hama Rikyu (former duck hunting grounds) because we were too busy looking around. This garden always amazes me because from almost any direction, the view includes the contrast of an old and carefully tended garden in front of giant highrises. There are more buildings now that I saw last time but maybe the building is finally slowing down.

Last time we were here in December 2005, we saw a blue mesh net over this area that now bursts with Rape flowers and photographers.

We walked over to Tsukiji so Larry could add to his knife collection. In the maze of shops, we somehow always find the same one where the owner's son lives in Omaha.

The lines for some sushi stands are long and probably indicate the best restaurants in the market. Sushi doesn't get any fresher than here!

After a great okonomiyaki lunch and a fascinating visit to the Museum of Advertising and Design (where no pictures are allowed,) we headed for Ito-Ya in Ginza. We found it easily by it's giant red paperclip sign. This place has 9 (skinny) floors of art and office supplies! Some of the calligraphy brushes in this picture cost several hundred dollars. This is obviously the pro line!

The selection of colored pencils alone was staggering!

After a long late afternoon of checking on hostels for the study abroad class, we finally had dinner at the "best kaiten-zushi place in Japan" that happened to be a couple short blocks from our ryokan. Although diners choose their sushi from plastic plates going by on a conveyor belt, the quality is outstanding. We were floored by the flavor and texture of each one- many were the best of their kind we had ever tasted. I had to try this beautiful California roll (with lettuce!) but I'm counting on Larry and Frauke to tell the rest. 

journey to Toyota

Today we made the challenging journey to Toyota City. It is about 45 minutes away from Nagoya by car but took us about 2 hours by train (actually two trains and a bus.) We first went to the HQ of Toyota motor corporation for a factory tour that was quite interesting because we walked above the factory floor on a catwalk and could see how they work with robots to assemble the cars in the final stage. Very clean and orderly. It inspires confidence in our Scion (made by Toyota.)

Next we made it to the original destination for this whole trip: our exhibition at the Toyota Municipal Museum of Art. This building and it's surrounding grounds are among the best I've ever seen in terms of brilliant use of space, light and materials. 

Our work was included in a Works on Paper show curated by Ryozo and Yoko Moristita (at the desk.)

Also on the grounds was the best modern teahouse I've ever seen! Too bad we didn't have time for tea.

Modern Japan

We started our trip by exploring Japan's old, rich culture but today we focused on the new (also very rich), modern Japan. We traveled to Toyota City, about 30 km outside of Nagoya to visit the Toyota plant and museum, followed by the Toyota Municipal Museum of Art.

At Toyota we were greeted by a trumpet-playing robot (one of the songs in his repertoire was "Somewhere over the rainbow"). The other futuristic vehicle is an "i-Unit," a sort of personal vehicle that can take you on the highway as well as pedestrian walkways. It was a strange experience. The museum ifself showcased Toyota's working philosophy, "Good Thinking, Good Products." It was amazing to learn about Kaizen (Continuous Improvement) and how it has been implemented at Toyota since the 1950s. The museum featured Toyota's newest technology as well as a ton of models that are not available in the U.S. Apparently there are about 40 Toyota models on the market in Japan. The tour of the assembly plant was equally interesting. We saw some of the robots assembling cars but what was most amazing was the organization of parts and Toyota's "Just-in-Time" production philosophy. The company is trying to only produce cars that were ordered by dealerships or customers so that it will not flood the market with cars that are not wanted.

In the afternoon we went to the Toyota Municipal Art Museum where Dana and Larry had an exhibition of their work. To me the building itself was the most amazing piece of art (with the exception of Dana and Larry's work of course). It was designed by Taniguchi and exhibits artwork reflecting the modern and contemporary. The museum was built using straight lines, reflection (through water, glass, and mirrors), and also features an incredible garden.

Along the JR Kyoto-Nara line

Todai-ji in Nara- the worlds largest and oldest wood building?
The Great Buddha Hall is 187 feet wide, 160 feet tall and 165 feet deep and contains a 50 foot tall Buddha with ears over 8 feet long!

Thinning pine needles in Uji near Byodo-in.

The contemporary museum hidden in the hill at Byodo-in.

Blossoms at Byodo-in.

The Phoenix Hall at Byodo-in, Uji.

Torii big and small at Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto.

Walking down the mountain through the torii at Fushimi Inari.

breakfast of champions?

I start the day with my favorite travelers breakfast in Japan: aloe vera yogurt, mikan (mandarins,) salted boiled eggs and green tea. Someone, please, bring aloe vera yogurt to the U.S.! Is the concept that hard to swallow?

It may not look like much here but this building holds the 1001 identical, gilded, nearly life size statues of Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, each with several extra sets of arms. It is truly a sight to behold and, of course, is not allowed to be photographed by visitors. 

Fortunately, one can find photographs on the internet!

Eight Thousand Arrows in Twenty-Four Hours

Today we went to Kyoto to visit and experience Sanjusangen-do, a Buddhist temple built in 1164. The temple houses 1001 statues of the 1000-armed Buddhist goddess of mercy, which is protected by smaller 1,000 Kannon. One reason this temple is so well known is that during the annual Toshi-ya Matsur archers shoot arrows the length of the hall. In 1686 an 18-year old archer set the record, shooting 8,000 arrows in 24 hours (averaging 7 arrows a minute)!

In the afternoon we visited Tenryu-Ji (heavenly dragon), a major Zeen temple. The temple and garden were incredibly beautiful and we could tell that the cherry blossoms are just about to burst. Maybe we'll be lucky toward the end of our trip to see some.