Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Saving the best for last

For our last night in Kyoto, I made reservations to stay at Shunko-in Temple in the Myoshin-ji complex in northwest Kyoto not far from the famous Zen garden Ryoan-ji. I can't remember how I found out about this place but when I discovered that the Vice-Abbot of the temple went to ASU and offered discounts to alumni, I was totally sold. We approached at dusk and could barely see the map to find our way. We were running late (as usual) and were rushing to get there by 6:30 to check in. In our haste we failed to take in the incredible context of our accommodations. The Myoshin-ji complex has 47 sub-temples within its gates and many of them contain historically significant gardens, paintings and other artifacts in addition to their notable architecture. Vice-Abbot Takafumi Kawakami welcomed us to Shunko-in with a freindly smile, easy English and a long list of things we might like to do in Kyoto. His best recommendation was to eat at a casual place just up the street run by his friend Akira called Kitchen Raku Raku (Easy Easy). (See Larry's post for for details: http://tlaverswithrally.blogspot.com/2009/03/pardon-meive-been-drinking.html )

Shunko-in is a relaxed place that looks like a cross between a temple and a hostel- bicycles, café tables and clotheslines fill the courtyards around the guest rooms. We slept on futons but our room had a deluxe toilet rivaling that of the ones at luxury hotels and department stores. (Luxury toilets in japan include tape recorded camouflage sounds, warm seats, bidets, other sprays and sometimes dryers and deodorizers!) The other shared facilities are more traditional (i.e. no-frills squats.) There is free wifi and a shared kitchen with everything one could want including an espresso machine. There are even bicycles to borrow.

This place is designed for outdoor living since only the sleeping rooms are heated- everything else is outside or almost outside. In keeping with Japanese architecture, the boundaries between inside and outside are often indistinguishable. After a warm and humid day near 80 degrees in Tokyo, we arrived to Kyoto in crisp weather in the 40's and 50's. I made tea in the kitchen and sat in the sun with hat, coat and gloves to enjoy it outside before our meditation lesson and the temple tour. (See Larry's post for more details: http://tlaverswithrally.blogspot.com/2009/03/meditation.html )

Taka and Larry at the temple "door."

Shunko-in has a fascinating history that includes Zen Buddhism, Shintoism and Christianity. Although it is a Zen temple, founded in 1590, it served as secret place for Christian worship when Christianity was banned from 1603-1867. A bell and a painted screen room both contain disguised Christian symbolism. The garden's theme is the great shrine of Ise, the head of all Shinto shrines in Japan. As a 5th generation temple priest from this place, it is no surprise that Taka chose religious studies as his major when he studied in the US and that he has also worked in religious conflict resolution. He is, not surprisingly, a supporter of the free Tibet movement. In other words, Taka is a man with a mission who is making a difference in the world by working for peace, tolerance, justice and cultural understanding every day. He does it on a large scale as a delegate to the U.S.-Japan Leadership Program and on a small scale by teaching meditation classes and providing temple tours, meditation lessons and accommodations to travelers. His tour of the temple was fascinating and I was sorry I didn't bring my book to take notes. He is full of information on the history, culture and art of Japan and he is well-connected to other temples and craft studios in Kyoto. He is the ultimate host for our Japanese Visual Culture course next summer! We made plans to base our course there in May when Taka said was the best possible time to stay. I look forward to introducing our students to Taka and Shunko-in. A few more images of Myoshin-ji temple complex- our Kyoto home base in May 2010!

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